08/09/2017
Upshi-Leh
Garmin Connect Two garmin logs today because the gadget switched off whilst sightseeing in Thikse
This was our last
proper cycling day and we were taking it easy. The roads were much busier now
and the whole area was very build up with villages and endless army bases.
There is a heavy army presence and perhaps the threat from China on the one
side and Pakistan on the other is much more real then we think. There certainly
is frequent trouble in Srinigar and we are told that tension between the Indian
and Chinese army is rising.The road from Manali to Leh is carved out of the
mountain side purely to enable the army access to Ladakh and Kashmir. It is a
very different experience from the Spiti and Kinnaur valleys with it's traditional Indian settlements and way of
life. The Manali – Leh Highway is almost devoid of any villages and the scenery is very stark and apart from
the road (or what passes as a road) it is devoid of any human evidence. There
are only the parachute camps which offer food and overnight stays for the
lorries and tourists. Many of them motor
bikers on Royal Enfields and the odd cyclists. During the winter they are all
closed because it is too cold and the road is impassible anyway. On the whole
the roads have been very quiet with traffic nearly always passing in clusters.
The tata trucks frequently belching out black clouds of diesel fumes. It was
always a case of how long can I hold my breath when I'm deprived of oxygen
already at this high altitude before I suck in the carbon monoxide.
On our final day we
stopped of at the Thikse gompa which was truly impressive before we tackled the
final climb into Leh. Leh is so different. At this time of year it is very
lush. Apple and apricot trees in abundance. Lots of fruit and veg for sale by
little road side vendors. The garden of our hotel is a riot of coulour
dahlia's, marigolds, holliehocks, mixed in with onions, cabages, carrots etc.
It's a garden to be envious of. But both access roads are closed in the winter
and we are told that supplies have to be flown in which makes everything very
expensive. It must be a very different place here in winter.
Of course we
celebrated our arrival with a beer or two with Max our fellow cyclist in one of
the many roof top terraces in Leh. Mission accomplished.
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| For us it was mission accomplished. For Max and Dave it was only just beginning. |
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